Above photo : Megan Hess
Megan Hess, internationally renowned, Melbourne fashion illustrator and author of sumptuous coffee-table books, has crafted a gemstone in this must-have tome. Louis Vuitton: The Illustrated World of a Fashion Icon is a masterful compilation, replete with exquisite drawings, an illustrated biography of the man, his life, career and the birth of the eponymous brand. It explores with depth and superb detail the fabric of the name synonymous with luxury.
Way before the world lusted for the LV graphic symbols of quatre foils and flowers based on a trend using Japanese Mon designs. Way before the signature monogram bags bearing classic design, elegance, exuding luxury and quality, became a staple must-have, there was the man.
Louis was born to a family of artisans, carpenters and farmers. After his parents died and a difficult relationship with his adoptive stepmother, he left his home in Jura, in Franche-Compt, taking odd jobs along the way, eventually making his way to Paris at age 13. Arriving in 1837, in the Middle of the Industrial Revolution, he apprenticed under Monsieur Marechel, a successful trunk maker and packer and within a few years Vuitton gained a reputation among Paris’ more fashionable class as one of the city’s premier practitioners of the craft.
After the return of Napoleon III, he was hired as a personal trunk maker and packer for the Empress Eugenie. She charged him with “packing the most beautiful clothes in a quite exquisite way”. This provided him with a gateway to his other elite and royal customers, who provided him with work for the rest of his career.
At the age of 33, in 1854, he left Marechel’s shop to open his own trunk making and packing workshop in Paris. Outside his shop hung a sign that read “securely packs the most fragile objects”.
In 1858 he introduced his revolutionary rectangular canvas trunks at a time when the market had only rounded-top leather trunks. The demand for Vuitton’s durable, lightweight designs spurred his expansion into a larger workshop in Asnieres-sur-Seine.
Vuitton designed the world’s first pick-proof lock which had an ingenious closing system that converted travel trunks into treasure chests. All lock patterns were safely kept in house and registered with the owner’s name in case another key was needed. Today the workshop continues to produce some of the brand’s exclusive pieces, including limited-edition collections and special-order trunks.
In 1872, after the Franco-Prussian War, Vuitton introduced a new line, featuring beige monogrammed designed with a red stripe that would remain his brand long after he died in 1892. He also set up his son and grandson to assume the helm of the business with incredible success, bringing LV luggage to the world.
The brand’s expansion into bags was sparked by Coco Chanel who ordered a custom handbag which culminated in servicing not only explorers and royalty but also the ubiquitous handbags loved by stars of stage and screen.
Collaborations with artists such as Richard Prince, Takeshi Murakami and Stephen Sprous
e catapulted the leather goods house to fashion leader in branded paraphernalia . When the maison expanded into ready-to-wear under Marc Jacob’s in the 2000s, the legacy of fashion accoutrements was complete challenging dress codes and remaking themselves.
The sheer pleasure of holding Megan Hess’s book is a delight to one’s spirit and an ode to the giant of a man that was Louis Vuitton.
Beautifully presented and researched narrative. Kept me interested all the way through. Amazing what can be found beyond the serface of iconic personalities. Thank you Eli, very well done. And keep them coming. It’s just the right length.
Helene